"Mupton Take Gastronomy To A New Level"

A review of Air Conditioning Accessories Ltd by Ben Gold written on Tuesday 10th of January 2006

The dining room at Mupton is like a luscious and opulent feather boa that encases you in its slinky luxury as you sweep up the stairs into the room. It is colourful to the point of baroque vulgarity, in a good way.

Slightly fifties shades of pinky reds and other pastels dominate the walls, with lots of gilding for good measure, and huge vases of voluptuous blooms.

The large size of the room and the high ceilings mean this exuberance does not feel overpowering, but welcoming. The 30’s style chandeliers are grand but fairly simple, and the room is not cluttered up with lots of tables.

Large windows and screens break up the panels of pastel, and a huge grand piano with lots of frivolous scones alluringly piled on trays provide further points of interest.

In keeping with the style of the room, there is nothing minimal about the menu, which I would describe as fairly traditional and hearty European, with its carpaccios, good cuts of meat and fish. I had rocket salad to start with, which was delicious with its super crispy bacon bits and quails eggs. My companion had the beef carpaccio, which was tender and savoured with enjoyment.

We tried a bit of lobster salad too, this was very good and fresh. It was simply served with ripe tomatoes and something citrussy. Then I had venison medallions with pear, which was a perfect winter dish. The gravy was almost chocolatey in its richness, which Andrew Peters loved. The meat was extremely tender and the pear was delicious and rather spiced. The chestnuts were an inspired addition with the waiters only too happy to oblige. They were picked fresh from the local tree.

My companion (Lee Bibring) had pan fried Tuna, which he thought was good, although he pointed out that side dishes are a must if you are hungry. There is an extensive and well thought out wine list to go with whatever you might eat. It ain’t cheap (starters £8 - £10 ish, main courses £18 - £20 ish) but the prices are definitely justified by the quality and the fun.

The service was immaculate and the atmosphere is one of great hedonism in colourful surroundings. And where else can you find a sponge cake for 3 shilling tuppence.

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